1910s
The American Wave Coiffure
This style of coiffure is similar to the celebrated Marcel wave
and differs only from it by being done more loosely.
The marcel hair dress is hard and tight.
In this the hair is more loosely gathered, even fluffy.
The first step in accomplishing this style of hair dress
is to part the hair all about the head in ring or aureole fashion,
gathering all of the hair within the circle
or on top of the head and tying it as shown above.
The outer section encircles the whole head,
hanging down loosely over it. This is now combed out evenly
and divided into strands varying from three-fourths to one inch
in width according to the thickness of each strand.
The strands must not, however, be very thick,
as this will not permit curling that will last.
If loose waves are required, have the strands wider.
For the very loose wave effect each strand
is lifted with the comb in the left hand and the marcel iron is used,
having the round part below the strand. This done,
close the iron, holding it there a moment and removing it.
It is best to begin such curling at the forehead,
going toward the back of the head
and around to the forehead on the other side,
or doing both front and sides before touching the back.
The method of holding the comb and iron are shown above.
Having made one wave or curl, the iron
is slid upward about an inch higher,
the comb receding with the iron,
and a second curl is made, and so on, until to within
about four inches of the end of the strand
in the average person, this depending of course
on the length of the hair.
One strand having been finished,
it is thrown lightly over the top of the head
and the next toward the temple
is taken up and curled as the first. The relation
of the first to the second is shown above.
Continue curling each strand as mentioned
with the exception that, if the front hair
is to be divided, it should all be done first,
so that when combed with its part showing,
whether in the centre or to one side, all the waves will fall regularly.
The hair having all been curled,
a hair roll is placed with its thick roll
or part at the back of the head,
and its points coming over the top of each ear.
This is pinned into place and the waved hair
is ready to be gathered up for the final dressing.
There now remains the ends and top hair to be disposed of.
These are gathered up and twisted into a knot,
somewhat loosely. The back hair is divided into two
or three or more strands to get a better contour
and gathered on top of the head next. This leaves
the free ends all joining there where they are tied.
The resulting switch or tail of hair if long
and full enough is divided into two or three
or more strands and each is made into a puff by rolling loosely
over the index fingers, making finger puffs.
Each puff so made is pinned into place,
composing a neat cluster at the crown of the head.
Use invisible pins for this purpose, bending them
upon themselves to hold the hair more firmly, as single pins do not hold.
A dutch braid may now be placed beneath the cluster of puffs
with its wide part at the back of the head.
The thin ends are brought around the cluster
and tucked under it where they end at the top or front of the head.
