With entry of the United States into World War II in 1942, the world of fashion went to war with waste and frivolity. Whether one was on the front fighting or aiding the great war machine by keeping the home fires burning, few people were unaffected by the war. Among the many commodities that were rationed were two that had a profound effect on the styles being designed during the war; silk and wool. Silk was being used to make parachutes (and many women donated their silk stockings to Uncle Sam), and wool was needed for uniforms and blankets for soldiers. The necessity to conserve challenged clothing designers to use their genius to make clothing using as little yardage as possible. Hemlines once again rose to just below the knee, skirts were often slender or boxy, having fewer gathers and pleats. Jackets were shorter and more fitted than in the thirties. Designers used clever cutting techniques in their pattern making to create detail work that required no extra yardage. However, detail below the waist would never again be quite as intricate and interesting as it had been before the war. Women's clothing also became more masculine as women took jobs traditionally held by men as they went off to war.
In stark contrast to the war efforts' conservation, the Zoot suit was a glaring reminder that not everyone supported the war. Zoot suits were made of an excessive amount of fabric and were mostly worn by non-white hepcats unwilling or unable to join the military. Zoot suiters were seen as being unpatriotic and often drove enlisted men into fits of rage that usually ended in violence.

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