As the quality and texture of cosmetic
products have changed in the last 80 years certain accommodations will have to
be made. Foundation and concealer, widely used today as a method of evening out
the coloring of the skin, was not in use during the 1920s. If you feel that you
require these products in order to be comfortable in public, I would use them,
however, sparingly. The look of the 20s, while cosmetics were used was decidedly
natural.
Application
Proper application requires not only the
correct method, but also procedure. A basic rule of thumb is all liquid based
products are applied before any powder based products. If you use a crème or
liquid based rouge you will apply this first. Powder-based rouges seem to be
more widely available today. If you are using powder-based rouge, you will be
applying it after you powder your face. Depending on the base of your rouge, you
will either be applying powder or rouge first and the other product after.
Face
Powder is applied with a puff. Load your puff
with powder that is a color closest to your natural skin tone. Press gently into
the surface of your skin. Lightly brush off any access with a cotton ball. If
you are using powder-based rouge, dab a cotton ball into the rouge and apply to
the "apple" of the cheeks. The "apple" is the circular pad of flesh at the tip
of your cheekbone that is created when you smile. Smile hard while you apply by
pressing rouge to the "apple" of your cheeks in a circular motion blending to
nothing at the perimeter of the "apple".
Cheeks
If you are using a crème or liquid based
rouge, apply rouge in a circular motion to the "apple" of your cheeks blending
well. Remember the coloring created should look natural. Then apply powder in
the method described above.
Eyes and Eyebrows
In order to dress the eyes, first brush the
powder out of your eyebrows with an eyebrow brush (small, stiff brush like a
toothbrush) dipped in water. While the refined look of the 20s promotes the
plucked brow look, one can create a streamlined brow look with proper grooming
and shaping of the brows. You may use a cake brow shadow or eyebrow pencil to
slightly darken and refine the brow line. With a damp eyebrow brush, load the
bristles with color two shades darker than your natural hair color. Apply the
color to the hairs of your eyebrows careful not to touch the skin. Touch the
outer edges of your eyelashes with this same brush. Make sure the paste created
with the shadow and damp brush dries a bit before application otherwise the
hairs will stick together. You may alternatively use an eyebrow pencil and
liquid mascara.
Lips
Lips of a healthy color add youthfulness to the mouth, and
lipstick should be used to some extent by all mature women for street and
evening make-up. A bright color may be used at night, but for daytime a subdued
tint is always in better taste. The lipstick should match the cheek rouge. To
apply it, the lips should be parted so that both the inner and outer surfaces
may be colored. Outline the cupid's bow, shading to the corners of the mouth.
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